The Pisa Bag is an easy no-sew crochet pattern to create your own tote bag using 1 skein of Memo's Art House Braided Rope Yarn Cakes (250g). The yarn is sturdy and great for those who dislike sewing on linings for your bag projects, but remains light in weight at just 250g each.
I love the colors of the yarn cakes as they add color to this simple bag without giving me the hassle of matching colors and joining yarn. I designed the bag with the intention of making it simple and can be completed within 1 skein, so the finished bag I made only weighs approximately 200g, with yarn remaining to customize it further.
The finished bag measures 29cm in length by 27cm in Height (36cm with handles) and can be easily customized to fit any size that you like as well! I will put in Tips along the pattern to guide you if you would like to make a larger or smaller version :)
The Pisa Bag
- Crochet Hook: 7/0 or 4.00mm Crochet Hook
- Stitch Markers
- Sewing Needle
- Scissors
Finished Size: 29cm Length x 27cm in Height (36cm with handles)
Abbreviations (U.S. Terms)
- CH: Chain
- MR: Magic Ring
- Sl St: Slip Stitch
- SC: Single Crochet Stitch
- DC: Double Crochet Stitch
- Sts: Stitches
- SK: Skip
Let's Begin!
Pisa Bag Pattern
Starting with your 4.00mm Hook and your yarn of choice:
R1: CH 45, turn, starting on 2nd CH from the hook and work 1 SC in each chain until you reach the corner. Work 2 SC in the corner and turn to work on the other side of the CH. Work 1 SC in each chain until the end. Sl st to the first stitch. (90 SC in total)
Tip: If you would like a larger or smaller bag, you can create more or fewer chains. Just ensure to keep the number of starting CH to multiples of 9.
R2: CH 3 (Counted as the 1st DC), 1 DC in every stitch around, sl st to the top of CH 3. (90 DC in total)
R3: CH 4 (Counted as 1st DC and 1st CH Space), *SK the next stitch, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches, CH 1* repeat between * for 8 times. SK the next stitch, 1 DC in the next 7 stitches. Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 4.
The starting CH 4 of R3
R4: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next 7 stitches, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches*, repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
When working for subsequent rows, the last DC of each repeat is worked into the CH spaces of the previous round before CH 1 and SK 1 to create the new CH space for the new round.R5: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next 6 stitches, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the last stitch, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
R6: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next 5 stitches, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 2 stitches, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
R7: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next 4 stitches, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 3 stitches, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
R8: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next 3 stitches, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 4 stitches, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
R9: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next 2 stitches, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 5 stitches, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
R10: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next stitch, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 6 stitches, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
Working our way upwards!
R11: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next stitch, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 6 stitches, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
R12: CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches* , repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 7 stitches, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
R13: Sl St to the CH 1 space, CH 3 (Counted as 1st DC), 1 DC in the next 7 stitches, *CH 1, SK 1, 1 DC in the next 8 stitches*, repeat between * for 9 times. CH 1, SK 1, Sl st to the 3rd CH of the starting CH 3.
Repeat R5-10 to complete R14-19.
Tip: For a larger bag, you can simply continue to repeat between R5-13 to make your bag taller.
R20: CH 3 (Counted as the 1st DC), 1 DC in every stitch around, sl st to the top of CH 3. (90 DC in total)
Time for the handles!
Starting on the bag handles:
R21: CH 1 (does not count as 1st SC), 1 SC in the same stitch, 1 SC in the next 17 stitches, CH 40, SK 15 stitches, 1 SC in the next 30 stitches, CH 40, SK 15 stitches, 1 SC in the next 12 stitches, Sl st to 1st CH 1 of the round.
Tip: If you want to have longer handles, you can crochet more CH stitches to make the strap longer. If you want them wider, you can also make more CH stitches and Skip more SC stitches so that the handles will cover a wider portion of the bag :)
R22: CH 1 (does not count as 1st SC), 1 SC in each stitch and CH around. (Total 140 stitches)
R23: CH 1 (does not count as 1st SC), 1 SC in each stitch and CH around. (Total 140 stitches)
R24: CH 1 (does not count as 1st SC), 1 SC in each stitch and CH around. (Total 140 stitches)
R25: CH 1 (does not count as 1st SC), 1 SC in each stitch and CH around. (Total 140 stitches)
Finish off. Sew off the ends to complete your own bag!
Tip: For bag handles, R22-25, you can repeat as many rows as you would like to make it to your desired thickness.
Your Pisa Bag is now completed!
I hope you have enjoyed this pattern!
If you have any questions on the pattern, feel free to send me a message via our social media platforms on Instagram/Tiktok/Facebook :)
Looking forward to seeing your finished Pisa Bags as well!
xoxo, Jassandra